Tonight I stayed at a very comfortable albergue in a biggish village after a tiring walk down from the mountains. There are now mileposts measuring the distance to Santiago, and the one here reads 130km, which means that I will probably pass the 100km mark sometime tomorrow.
It is now 6.20am and I had to get up, but I am in the top bunk tonight, so there is no point in climbing back, so I have come down to the internet PC here until the others in the room wake up.
The talk among the pilgrims has started to turn to what they will feel like when this is all over. We have all made many acquaintances on the Camino, some good, some passing, but none bad in my experience. It occurred to me that of the 7 other people staying in my room tonight, I have met 5 of them several times over the past 4 weeks.
We may stay in touch, but we will probably never see each other again after next week. The experience of the Camino with the practical details of foot maintenance, eating, washing etc, as well as the scenery and experiences which change every day and sometimes every hour, will stop for me around next Wednesday.
It occurred to me that this is a reflection of life. Things happen to us, and we meet people that are important to us, but then they fade into the memory. I suppose the way you look at this depends on whether you see the Camino as a tourist trip or a pilgrimage. If you see it from the point of view of religious faith, then experiences and people never fade away in reality, it and they have everlasting importance. Tomorrow is All Saints´ Day which, as I understand it, expresses that hope that ¨we are surrounded by a cloud of witnesses¨ and life is everlasting. When we are at our best, we can see charity every day, but faith and hope are the real challenge.
Wednesday, 31 October 2012
Tuesday, 30 October 2012
O'Cebreiro
It was truly spectacular walk this morning to the top of the hills here, across the border into Galicia to the little village of O'Cebreiro.
At the moment I am sitting in the simple but beautiful little church here.
Do you think the lighting effect on the crucifix on the altar is deliberate?
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Laguna de Castilla
Yesterday walked mostly beside the road, but past rolling green field and through the hills. The last part was steep, about 6 Awaba streets.
The photo above is this morning outside a small family run albergue in the hills. Today is a short climb and then it is pretty level to Santiago.
When I arrived here yesterday, I thought they were playing Irish folk music over the pa, but I was told it was traditional Galician music by a group called "Luar Na Lubre". I think there is a Celtic connection here.
Yesterday I walked for a while with a young German man who is deciding what he wants to study and do in his life. Such musings are fairly often one of the reasons for doing the Camino among the people I meet.
By the way, to put the walking in perspective, yesterday I met a man walking in the opposite direction. He was Voytek, who had left Poland in May and had already been to Santiago via Fatima and was walking back home. I also met Marco who was on his way back to Barcelona.
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Location:Vega de Valcarce,Spain
Monday, 29 October 2012
long, short, black, white
I was walking today for a while with an Italian woman who knows a lot about coffee (maybe not unusual).
I wanted to get to the bottom of the strange expression "flat white coffee", and associated terms, that took hold in Australia about 20 years ago. I'm pretty sure nowhere else in the world uses this mysterious description for coffee.
According to her, the types of coffee include:
cafe corto, cafe lungo, which must correspond to short black and long black.
Coffee that uses milk often uses the word "macchiato", which means stained, in the sense of "I have a tomato sauce stain on my shirt".
This is used for the types of coffee:
cafe macchiato, latte macchiato, where the word before macchiato is the largest ingredient. Thus latte macchiato is mostly milk, with a little bit of coffee.
In her opinion, the Spanish "cafe con leche" can be either latte macchiato or cappuccino, depending on how much froth the particular bar uses.
This leaves the question of the difference between cafe latte and latte macchiato. In her opinion, cafe latte is usually what people make at home because they don't have a machine to make creamy froth. What you get at a bar is latte macchiato.
This still leaves the problem of "flat white coffee". She had of course never heard this term and was understandably mystified by it. From my experience, a flat white is really a cappacino without much froth.
Can anyone throw light on this puzzle?
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I wanted to get to the bottom of the strange expression "flat white coffee", and associated terms, that took hold in Australia about 20 years ago. I'm pretty sure nowhere else in the world uses this mysterious description for coffee.
According to her, the types of coffee include:
cafe corto, cafe lungo, which must correspond to short black and long black.
Coffee that uses milk often uses the word "macchiato", which means stained, in the sense of "I have a tomato sauce stain on my shirt".
This is used for the types of coffee:
cafe macchiato, latte macchiato, where the word before macchiato is the largest ingredient. Thus latte macchiato is mostly milk, with a little bit of coffee.
In her opinion, the Spanish "cafe con leche" can be either latte macchiato or cappuccino, depending on how much froth the particular bar uses.
This leaves the question of the difference between cafe latte and latte macchiato. In her opinion, cafe latte is usually what people make at home because they don't have a machine to make creamy froth. What you get at a bar is latte macchiato.
This still leaves the problem of "flat white coffee". She had of course never heard this term and was understandably mystified by it. From my experience, a flat white is really a cappacino without much froth.
Can anyone throw light on this puzzle?
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Villafranca del Bierzo
Having just passed the line of 200km to go, I'm staying at Villafranca del Bierzo. This is a wine area, and they say it has a microclimate suitable for grapes, which I suppose means the surrounding hills create the climate. Unfortunately this also means we have to climb over one of the hills tomorrow in order to continue to Santiago.
The sky was clear and blue today, which meant it was cold in the morning. If it is clear tomorrow, I'll wear my new beanie.
(Bart: a beanie is a cap to keep your head warm, such as for skiing. It is probably an American word, I don't know where it comes from).
I'm staying with some Canadians and an American that I haven't since the first week of the Camino, which is great.
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St Mary's, Ponferrada
Met a pilgrim at Mass last night (Marco) that I last saw at Najera.
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Location:Benavides,Spain
Sunday, 28 October 2012
Ponferrada
I am now in Ponferrada (despite what the GPS location says)
This is only 8km from Molinaseca, but we made a late start at 10am and the next albergue is at least 20km away. I did some shopping here and recharged my Vodafone SIM card.
There are also some interesting things to visit here, such as the medieval Templar castle above (though I think it has been extensively).
The next big town is Villafranca and then there are a couple of hills which I am told can be difficult, especially in rain.
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Location:Molinaseca,Spain
Saturday, 27 October 2012
Molinaseca
It was much harder walking down from Cruz de Ferro than walking up. The descent is further, almost 1000 metres, and the track is either rough with large, loose rocks, or you have to walk on the road, which means you have to be very careful to look out for traffic. An albergue was closed, which meant I had to walk further than I planned, then here at Molinaseca, 1 albergue was closed and the other was full. Four of us are sharing a room at a hostel here.
After all that, the accommodation is good here, as it was yesterday in Rabanal with the Englishmen from the London based Confraternity of St James.
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After all that, the accommodation is good here, as it was yesterday in Rabanal with the Englishmen from the London based Confraternity of St James.
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Location:Calle del Pisón,Molinaseca,Spain
Climb to Cruz de Ferro
The weather this morning was misty and still and therefore warm. It was a peaceful climb and everything seemed close, even though we were climbing to the highest point of the Camino. Just before Cruz de Ferro, the clouds cleared, the sky was blue and we could see the mountains around us.
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Friday, 26 October 2012
Cruz de Ferro
I'll be going to the cross and stones today.
Internet access is bad here, so I don't know if I will be able to post again today.
Astorga chocolate above.
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Thursday, 25 October 2012
Murias de Rechivaldo
Because I spent time in Astorga, I am now only 5km east of Astorga in a very comfortable albergue, watching the rain come down. I arrived just in time to miss the rain. After my shopping in Astorga, I now own a good poncho, gloves, scarf and beanie.
The plan is to walk 15km to Rabanal tomorrow.
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Location:Calle de los Mártires,Astorga,Spain
Wednesday, 24 October 2012
John Mascarenhas
Right at this moment, a meeting of the St Kieran's toastmasters club is starting in Manly Vale.
They will be remembering John Mascarenhas, who died last week. John was involved in this and many other activities where he wanted to give back to society and he will be remembered by all the people he touched.
May he rest in peace.
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They will be remembering John Mascarenhas, who died last week. John was involved in this and many other activities where he wanted to give back to society and he will be remembered by all the people he touched.
May he rest in peace.
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Gaudi
Gaudi's "bishop's palace" next to the cathedral in Astorga, though no bishop ever stayed here.
Astorga is a wonderful place to rest and recover: big enough for all facilities, but not too big and with a rich history.
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Location:Av de las Murallas,Astorga,Spain
Ordinary
Went to 8pm Mass at St Bartholomew's at Astorga. An exotically decorated church, but just an ordinary daily Mass. For some reason it struck me that this ordinariness unites people in different countries and unites the living and the dead.
Location:Calle de Tejeros,Astorga,Spain
Tuesday, 23 October 2012
Milepost
I saw this sign yesterday.
I just had a coffee with two Catalan men, and they told me Astorga has very good food, so no pilgrim menu for me tonight.
They also told me that there are 4 languages in Spain, Castillian, Catalan, Basque and Potugese, since Portugese is spoken in Santiago. I didn't know that.
San Martin del Camino
Just finished walking about 25km East of León to San Martin del Camino (next to the solar panels above) along flat paths on a warm sunny day. Tomorrow it is about 20km to Astorga, then begins the 600m climb to Cruz de Ferro.
Halfway up is Rabanal, and I would like to stay there because I think you can hear the monks singing Gregorian chant in the evening.
The forecast is for warm weather with a little bit of rain on Thursday, so that sounds good.
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Location:Villadangos del Páramo,Spain
Monday, 22 October 2012
Leon
Had a good day with Michael in Leon yesterday. As well as its many other virtues, the Basilica of St Isidore has central heating for kneeling members of the congregation (see above).
Unfortunately this morning 2 pilgrims found they had been robbed and cash was taken out of their wallets. The albergue did all it could, and most pilgrims are very honest, but I suppose it is riskier in the big cities. In both cases, the wallets were nearby but outside the sleeping bag, which is a lesson to us.
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Location:Carrizo de la Ribera,Spain
Sunday, 21 October 2012
Good night's sleep
I'm staying at the albergue in Leon run by Benedictine nuns, so at 9.30pm yesterday we could participate in their evening prayers. This was in addition to the singing of a group of Korean young people who are walking the Camino to collect money for a group of orphans.
This albergue is much more strictly run than most, with segregated dormitories, no alcohol allowed and lights on at 6.10am. Antonio looks after us and he runs a tight ship. Some people resent these rules, but after the sights and smells of the previous nights I looked forward to a quiet night and for the first time I slept right through the night.
Today Michael and I will spend the day looking around the town, which will be great but I feel a strange regret that I won't be walking. Only 2 weeks to go and I then have to confront normal life again. It will be a real change.
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This albergue is much more strictly run than most, with segregated dormitories, no alcohol allowed and lights on at 6.10am. Antonio looks after us and he runs a tight ship. Some people resent these rules, but after the sights and smells of the previous nights I looked forward to a quiet night and for the first time I slept right through the night.
Today Michael and I will spend the day looking around the town, which will be great but I feel a strange regret that I won't be walking. Only 2 weeks to go and I then have to confront normal life again. It will be a real change.
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Location:Calle Ancha,Leon,Spain
Saturday, 20 October 2012
Lessons learned
Walking into Leon.
Last night a young pilgrim learned that drinking without eating is dangerous.
I learned not to stay at an albergue with a kitchen, where people can drink until late.
Meanwhile I am near Sanfelismo, meaning holy happiness.
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Location:Cimanes del Tejar,Spain
Musilla de las Mulas
After the train trip to Leon, and an excellent lunch in the railway cafeteria I wanted to minimize my cheating by going to the pilgrim stop before Leon, namely Musilla de las Mulas. A very helpful woman in the news agent showed me where to catch the bus, so tomorrow I will walk back to Leon from here. I've run into some of the fast walkers I met a week or two ago. The photo above is St Mary's church here, complete with 2 storks' nests. No sign of the storks, though.
I saw a weather forecast on TV, and it showed heavy rain East of here, including over the Pyrenees, but at the moment it is sunny to the West, all the way to Santiago, though that could change.
By the way, the name of one of the TV announcers was Jesus Amor. How about that for a name to live up to?
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Palencia
Today was a bit complicated. In order to meet up with Michael in Leon tomorrow, I took the bus to Palencia, then the train to Leon. While waiting for the train in Palencia, I visited the cathedral there.
The train trip was 1 hour, and they showed a movie called D'Artagnan. I'm not sure if this is an American or Spanish movie, there were American actors in it. It was hypnotisingly weird, involving the 3 Muskateers and 2 Spanish galleons which could fly with the help of large balloons and which lifted the heroine up with a crane and had mid-air cannon broadside fights. Look for it in a cinema near you.
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Friday, 19 October 2012
Physical report
It is probably some form of presumption, but my feet feel good at the moment. All the blisters have healed or are healing and I don't have any pain in my little toe.
I must have lost weight because I have to tighten my belt more now. I suppose walking 20km per day and not eating much will do that for you.
I can breathe very easily here due to the lack of Sydney heat, dust and pollen.
I also find it is easier bending down and moving around, I suppose I am getting regular exercise for my legs and shoulders with the walking and backpack.
So far my knees are holding up.
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I must have lost weight because I have to tighten my belt more now. I suppose walking 20km per day and not eating much will do that for you.
I can breathe very easily here due to the lack of Sydney heat, dust and pollen.
I also find it is easier bending down and moving around, I suppose I am getting regular exercise for my legs and shoulders with the walking and backpack.
So far my knees are holding up.
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Location:Calle de las Damas,Frómista,Spain
Thursday, 18 October 2012
Map of progress
There is a good map of my location on a friend's blog, if you are interested:
http://attractedtothelight.blogspot.com.au
Thank you for that, Tonia, how do you edit the arrow on the map?
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http://attractedtothelight.blogspot.com.au
Thank you for that, Tonia, how do you edit the arrow on the map?
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Location:Tardajos,Spain
Random observations
1) On the outskirts of Burgos, the Google car drove past. I must check Google street view for Calle Vitoria to see if I can see myself.
2) I have met several people from Korea on the Camino. I have been told that a Korean woman has written a book about the Camino, which might explain the interest.
3) the Camino is a strange experience. It is hard to plan your progress, and it seems that the less you plan, the more things happen.
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Location:Castrojeriz,Spain
Meseta
There is a plateau (meseta) to the west of Burgos. When the sky is blue, there are big skies and far horizons (which are often lined with windmills waving their arms at each other). However, when it is raining, as it was today, their are long straight, muddy tracks and low grey skies.
Having said that, I feel great with the cold weather. My asthma and allergies disappear when the temperature drops and I'm not looking forward to the hot weather back in Sydney.
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Location:Castrojeriz,Spain
Wednesday, 17 October 2012
Hontonas
Walking over mesata (plateau) and not much Internet access
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Location:Las Quintanillas,Spain
Tuesday, 16 October 2012
Camels and needles
This is a photo of me leaving Burgos, in front of the park near the university. This was used in the scene of the gypsies returning the backpack in the movie.
Yesterday I went to Mass at Burgos cathedral and ran into someone I had met at Orisson, which was a very pleasant surprise.
When leaving the cathedral, there were many beggars at the door, a little ironic since the Godpel for the day was about it being harder for a rich man to get to heaven than for a camel to pass through the eye of a needle.
I then had a strawberry smoothie in a cafe. I found a taxi driver easily to take me back to the albergue and she was more professional than the disheveled taxi and driver I got from the barman in the village.
Weather today was cold but sunny and no wind, so muchore pleasant.
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Monday, 15 October 2012
Advice
I was just entering Burgos cathedral and ran into Roel, a Dutchman on the Camino who I met last week when I was leaving Logrono. Roel said I would feel better after Mass and a good dinner. We shall see.
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Location:Calle de Diego Percelos,Burgos,Spain
Bad day
Today has been a bad day. It is cold, windy with black threatening clouds, although I haven't seen much rain yet. I started about 35 km from Burgos and walked 15km through a pine plantation. It was like walking to Sydney through the Belangelo state forest on a cold, rainy day. There was an open church, but no Mass because the priest is in Burgos.
I booked into an albergue in a tiny town 20km from Burgos, then had a brain snap. There are no buses on Sunday, but I found a taxi who would take me to Bugos for 30 Euros. It was money well spent to get out of there. I'm not sure how I'll get back to my albergue, but hopefully I'll find a taxi.
There are queues of people buying tickets to see Burgos cathedral, but there is a Mass at 7.30pm and apparently I'll be allowed into that for free.
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I booked into an albergue in a tiny town 20km from Burgos, then had a brain snap. There are no buses on Sunday, but I found a taxi who would take me to Bugos for 30 Euros. It was money well spent to get out of there. I'm not sure how I'll get back to my albergue, but hopefully I'll find a taxi.
There are queues of people buying tickets to see Burgos cathedral, but there is a Mass at 7.30pm and apparently I'll be allowed into that for free.
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Saturday, 13 October 2012
Viloria de la Rioja
Staying at the albergue in Viloria de la Rioja which has a unique atmosphere. As they say, it is "apadrinado por Paulo Coelho" or "Paulo Coelho is the godfather of here" PC is a Brazilian who wrote a famous book about the Camino. I first heard of it from the Brazilian woman who sold me my boots at the Warringah Mall. The auberge here is full of books, writings, objects and paintings (such as the one above) and there is music playing all the time. Our patron has met Paulo Coelho and he tells me many people miss the Camino experience by spending too much time planning with their minds.
Remarkably, three people I had met before on the Camino have just arrived and we are waiting for the meal the patron is preparing for us.
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Friday, 12 October 2012
Lluviendo
Today is Lluviendo (ie rainy). My feet feel good, I don't know if that is because of the cold and rain.
Not many photos today because my camera is buried in my backpack under 3 layers of plastic to keep it dry.
Last night we stayed at a very small village with not many people, but hundreds of brand new, empty apartments and a golf course for the amusement of people from Burgos and Bilbao.
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Location:Carretera de Madrid a Logroño,Albelda de Iregua,Spain
Thursday, 11 October 2012
Misty
The weather was better than I expected this morning, no rain, just mist.
I've decided to stay in albrgues in small villages as far as possible. These seem to be more comfortable and are often run by families who can be very helpful. There is no trouble finding a place at this time of year.
In the big towns they are built to handle the big numbers in the middle of summer and they can be cramped.
Another important topic: snoring. As far as I know, I don't snore but I need confirmation of this. From my observation so far, about 30% of the population snore. Strangely, the snorers are able to fall into a deep, snoring sleep as soon as their head hits the pillow. Fortunately, I have no trouble sleeping and can sleep through storms, earthquakes and snoring. I wonder if this means I snore myself?
On the subject of the film "The Way" about the Camino, starring Martin Sheen, I was told about the poetic license they took in the film. There is an episode when they stay in a luxurious hotel in Leon. The hotel shown in the film is actually in Burgos, not Leon.
There is a scene halfway through on a terrace. This was actually filmed in Orisson which is the Albergue in the Pyrenees where I stayed on the first night.
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Location:Alesanco,Spain
Practical details
I have come to the conclusion that there is no point in doing hand washing of clothes at the end of the day. Even if I do it at 3pm, the clothesline at every place is in the shade and my clothes are still wet the next day. The recommended method is to tie them to your pack, but they end up covered in dust and need washing again.
There are enough places with waders and driers to do it all when they are available.
Fortunately my quick drying towel is dry enough each day to be packed away.
My toe still hurts, but a Canadian man showed me a bandage tune you can buy at the farmacia. If I put a normal bandage on my toe, then cover it with the tube, it is ok for about 5km. Then it starts hurting again because the tube slips a bit. If I stop and readjust it, I'm ok for another 5km. A bit complicated but. It works.
I have now covered about 250km, a third of the Camino, so I'm interested to see how my feet issues will change. Yesterday I did 30km and I think I'm still ok. Today will be slower because of the rain.
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There are enough places with waders and driers to do it all when they are available.
Fortunately my quick drying towel is dry enough each day to be packed away.
My toe still hurts, but a Canadian man showed me a bandage tune you can buy at the farmacia. If I put a normal bandage on my toe, then cover it with the tube, it is ok for about 5km. Then it starts hurting again because the tube slips a bit. If I stop and readjust it, I'm ok for another 5km. A bit complicated but. It works.
I have now covered about 250km, a third of the Camino, so I'm interested to see how my feet issues will change. Yesterday I did 30km and I think I'm still ok. Today will be slower because of the rain.
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Location:Calle de las Parras,Nájera,Spain
Najera
Attended the 8pm pilgrim Mass at the church of Santa Cruz. The priest, Fr JoseFeliz has a ceremony involving each pilgrim ringing a bell in the sanctuary. He then stamped our passports and personalized each with a drawing related to our countries of origin.
I then had dinner in a cafe and was caught in a thunderstorm.
There is still rain today and I plan to walk slowly, from cafe to cafe. I think the forecast is for the weather to improve.
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Location:Calle Mayor,Nájera,Spain
Wednesday, 10 October 2012
Logrono
Spent last night in Logrono and I've just walked about 13km to Navarrete, the town in the photo. Walking has been easier today because of the clouds.
We stopped at a cafe on the way out of Logrono, and the very helpful owner of the cafe, Jesus, asked us to pray for him if we reach Santiago. He asks this of all the pilgrims he meets. For what my prayers are worth, I'll try to do it.
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Location:Navarrete,Spain
Feeling better
Arrived in Lograno, washed myself and my socks and went to the pulaqueria to have a haircut and shave. I'm waiting with other pilgrims for the restaurants to open at 8pm.
The doors of the cathedral just opened and I see that there is a Mass at 8pm as well. I'm afraid I can't make it today, but I'll try at another town.
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Tuesday, 9 October 2012
Field outside Viana
Grapevines and fields.
Forecast is for 27 degrees today, but that only happens at 3pm in the afternoon. It is cool in the morning. But rain is forecast for Friday.
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Torres del Rio
Stayed last night at Torres del Rio an at the moment resting in a bar at Viana (above) opposite the church where Cesat Borgia is buried.
The Camino is becoming more contemplative after all the changing scenery over the Pyrenees. There are a series of town like here, with a medieval church and town square, surrounded by new apartments being built. They are in farmlands with recently harvested wheat and more and more grapes and olives.
There are 3 big towns on the Camino, Logrono, Burgos and Leon.
People keep asking "where are you going to?" because many of the Europeans do it in 2 week chunks. I wonder if this changes to "where did you come from?" as you get closer to Samtiago?
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Location:Viana,Spain
Monday, 8 October 2012
Toe
Having lunch in the main square at Los Arcos. This morning I noticed a blister on my toe and put a compeed dressing on and it feels a lot better. I managed 10km this morning without much discomfort.
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Location:Los Arcos,Spain
Villamayor de Monjardin
Stayed last night at an albergue run by A Dutch ecumenical Christian group, who offered a mediation to end the day. An interesting and refreshing day.
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Location:Yerri,Spain
Sunday, 7 October 2012
Domingo XXVII, T. Ordination
Went to 9am Mass at St Juan Bautista at Estella.
I think I was lucky to find a Mass that early, because most are in the afternoon or evening (meaning 6,7 and 8pm)
I was a little confused because today's bulletin had the text of the Gospel about the rich man and the camel going through the eye of a needle. But the priest read a different gospel. It seems that the practice is to put the text of the following Sunday in the bulletin, so you have a week to read it and think about it. Perhaps not a bad idea.
I got my first blisters yesterday, one on each heel. They are not too bad, it is my little toe that is causing the problem, even when I put a bandage on it. I will make today a day of rest and only walk about 10 km.
Yesterday I met the second person who started her Camino at Vezalay, near Paris. This means she had walked almost 1000 km before starting the Camino in Spain. How about that?
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Location:Ayegui - Aiegi,Spain
Saturday, 6 October 2012
A bit of a worry
This is the fourth such monument I have seen so far, to people who have dropped dead on the Camino. This one is in memory of Mr Arne Schmidt of Denmark, who died here in May last year, aged 76. This has not been a very difficult day so far, so I suspect other factors were involved.
Anyway, may Arne rest in peace.
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Location:Yerri,Spain
Cirauqui
Construction is everywhere. Maybe the economy is not as bad as we think.
Last night at the bar I had a good bocadillo and th batman used Google translate and Google images to facilitate communication. Technology is your friend.
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Location:Calle de Forzosa,Mañeru,Spain
Maneru
I've stopped at a little village called Maneru. This doesn't appear in some of the guides, but it does have an auberge. As it happens, 5 of the 9 residents tonight are from Australia. Unfortunately, there are no restaurants, and the only supermarket closed early today. As the sign said,"disculpos por las molestas".
There is, however, a bar full of well dressed people who arrived in 2 coaches for a wine tasting at the bodega here. No food available, though. I am told some bread snacks and tortillas will be available from 8pm.
While waiting, I noticed the sign above on the wall outside the bar. At first I thought it was about the Compostella de Santiago. On closer inspection, it turns out to be an offer of advice about compost. Precision is important with language.
Location:Calle de la Fe,Mañeru,Spain
Friday, 5 October 2012
Puenta La Reina
In StJames church in zpuenta La Reina.
Another warm day with a bright blue sky.
It just occurred to me that I flew out of Sydney 2 weeks ago tomorrow. I feel like I've been here for months.
On the Camino, you see something completely different every hour or two.
For example, today I started from a new auberge in a small village, walked through fields where they just harvested the hay, as well as some grape vines and maize. Then visited a 12th century church. Then had a bread roll and cheese for lunch and bought a bandage for my little toe. On the outskirts of Puenta La Reina there are brand new apartments and they want you to visit the demonstration unit.
Now I'm sitting in the Iglesia de Santiago and soon I want to look for a bank and have something to drink before starting this afternoon's walk.
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Location:Legarda,Spain
Santa Maria de Eunate
Made the recommended 2km detour to see the 12th century church at Eunate.
Dennis looked much better this morning and he will rest a day before continuing.
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Location:Adiós,Spain
Sick Dennis
Dennis is a French Canadian I met at St Jean Pied de Port. He had already walked 900 km from Vezalay, near Paris.
He was in bed here when I arrived and is suffering from some sort of infection. He will try to rest and sleep it off.
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He was in bed here when I arrived and is suffering from some sort of infection. He will try to rest and sleep it off.
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Location:Legarda,Spain
Uterga
I had planned to finish in Puente La Riena today, as the guide book suggests, but I ran out of both time and energy and I'm staying at Uterga, about 7 km short of Puente La Riena. My feet hurt after walking over the loose stones on the road and the beer is good here. Tomorrow is another day.
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Location:Carretera de Guenduláin,Cizur,Spain
Thursday, 4 October 2012
Peak of repentance (Alto del Perdon)
A Spanish man riding the Camino on a bicycle just told me the hardest part is Robcevalles to here, the rest is easy. Can he be trusted?
Location:Cizur,Spain
University of Navarre
Just passed the University of Navarre and found t I could have my pilgrim passport stamped here.
I believe this is run by Opus Dei, so it looks very neat and prosperous.
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Pamplona
It was a hot day today and I felt it my legs more than the previous days. Someone said that the third day is the hardest, maybe they are right.
I'm staying in Pamplona at the Jesu y Maria auberge. This is a former Jesuit church that has been gutted and filled with beds and bathrooms. The photo above is the view from my bunk. A bit weird.
Pamplona is surrounded by fortified walls and has a maze of narrow streets bordered by 4 story medieval (I think) buildings. The central square was still full of people when I finished dinner at 9pm.
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Dropping the backpack
This is the bridge over the river outside the fortifications around Pamplona.
There are many similar medieval bridges here, but I was told this is the one used in the movie "The Way" for the scene where Martin Sheen accidentally drops his backpack over the bridge into the river.
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Dropping the backpack
This is the bridge over the river outside the fortifications around Pamplona.
There are many similar medieval bridges here, but I was told this is the one used in the movie "The Way" for the scene where Martin Sheen accidentally drops his backpack over the bridge into the river.
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