For the first day from St Jean Pied de Port, there are lots of options. If the weather is good, one woman managed to walk over the Pyrenees and get to Roncevalles on the first day. SJPP is big and there should be accommodation without booking, but Orisson, halfway up the mountain is small (about 50 places) and could be booked out. However, even if Orisson is full, one suggestion is to leave the pack in St J, walk up to Orisson, catch a taxi back down and the next morning take the taxi back up to Orisson and walk from there. Sounds practical even if it is a compromise.
If the weather is bad, the police tell people not to walk over the mountain, but there is another path through the valley to Roncevalles. Must be a new route, otherwise why did Napoleon and Hannibal take the high road?
On the high path, just before Roncevalles, there are 2 routes, the main one is very steep, and another one which is 2km longer, but not so steep. They warn bicycle riders not to take the steep path, but it would be a good idea for walkers as well. Later in the walk, there is another long steep downhill walk and one person took the bus down the hill to save her knees.
They say the last 100km to Santiago is not so interesting. Lots of tourists and school students walking the path. This makes the walk feel more like a tourist outing than a pilgrimage. They also heard something about young offenders from Belgium being sent to walk the last 100km. I will have to check if there is any truth in that.
Some recommended places:
St Julian, just before Ponteferra.
Foncebadan, Manjarin and Rabinal are good places to see - pilgrims are asked to read at the Mass at Rabinal.
Architecture by Gaudi in Estorga and Leon
Melide and Lorca
On practical things,
make sure you walk at your own pace.
take off the rubber tips on your stocks when walking on the unpaved paths.
there is a water fountain at the top of the Pyrenees.
take 2m of muslin cloth to use as a towel, it dries quickly.
it costs about $A50 per day for food and accommodation, so keep about $A150 (in Euro of course) in cash for the next 3 days. They gave me a list of places with banks and internet cafes along the route.
Keep sending messages back home to tell people where you are. (Of course each hotel which stamps the pilgrim passport also records the names of people who stayed the night)
If you use gaiters, use them with velcro, not elastic because that hurts your leg.
Use separate plastic "ziplock" bags to store underpants, shirts, money etc. This keeps everything dry and clean at the refugios.
Don't take a pillow, but take a pillowslip. Put this over the pillow if they give you one, otherwise stuff it with clothes to use as a pillow.
The only thing that worried me was a woman who does a lot of walking said that her boots became tight. She said that with walking every day, her feet swelled, and now she gets boots a bit bigger. I don't think I can do anything about this, my boots feel good now and I don't want to buy another pair now.
Meanwhile, the strengthening exercises on my knees seem to be working and I am feeling stronger walking up and down stairs, but I have to be careful not to overdo it before starting the walk.
No taxis or buses! Don't suppose you can book Orisson in advance so you know you've got a bed when you get there? The pillow idea sounds good.
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